Steve and Cathy Clarke, long time residents of Gordon Head recently returned from climbing Mt Kilimanjaro this past August. (2009) Steve (53) and Cathy (49) are at the mid point of their live. Several years ago Steve started a tradition of trekking to the Base Camp of Mt Everest with each of his son’s upon their graduation from high school. “I’ve done it for the first 2 sons and have one more son to go – so likely one more trip to Nepal in late 2010.”
The Clarke’s have been involved in humanitarian work since 1984 primarily in India and Nepal. They are involved with an organization that builds and operates children’s homes, schools, medical clinics for destitute children in the rural mountain regions of North India and Nepal. “My love for Asia began in the summer of 1979 when I traveled to India and did some volunteer work. That summer made a huge impact on Steve’s life. “I fell in love with the culture, the people and the mountains.” Since that time Steve continues to travels to India and Nepal typically once a year, with his charity work.
About 10 years ago Steve reflected on how his travels and work had impacted his life and wondered how his experiences might be beneficial to others. As a result Steve typically invites others to join him on his “Expeditions to Asia” each year. “We have been involved in a range of activities including, building projects, construction, mixing cement, tying rebar, digging foundations, playing sports, fund raising, helping out at feeding centers, teaching English, leading music and games and of course trekking. It’s been a life changing experience for me and I hope to share those opportunities with others. In whatever ways we have been able to help others less fortunate than ourselves, we are convinced that we have received more and have been richly blessed as a result of our travels and adventures abroad.”
This past trip to climb to the summit of Mt Kilimanjaro was not to raise funds or involve charity work. It was a celebration of 27 years of marriage, a personal challenge, a test of endurance, and a commitment to continue a lifestyle of physical and mental challenges. “Unless, I continue to set personal goals and have a reason to work out, I’m likely to just sit around and watch sports on TV.”
Kilimanjaro:
Mt. Kilimanjaro is located on the north eastern plains of Tanzania in south eastern Africa. Mt Kilimanjaro is both the world’s highest free standing mountain (not part of a mountain range) and the highest mountain in Africa at 5895 meters. Kilimanjiro is actually is an inactive volcano. Ernest Hemingway’s novel, “The Snows of Kilimanjaro” has contributed to the aura and mystic of Kilimanjiro. Sadly the snows on Kilimanjaro are rapidly disappearing due to climatic changes and deforestation in the region. From its base to summit there are distinct climatic zones ranging from: tropical rainforest, moorland, alpine desert, and arctic conditions at the summit. In preparations one has to pack the appropriate clothing for all weather conditions.
Training:
Steve & Cathy are regular users of the Gordon Head Recreation Center and trained for 6 months. They could frequently be seen working out on the Stairmaster and elliptical machines. In addition they are regular hikers on the trails of Mt Douglas, Mt. Finlayson and Elk Lake. “Victoria really is an incredible place for both outdoor and indoor recreational facilities. We take it all for granted but we are so blessed to have all these amenities so close at hand.” We have come to greatly appreciate the incredible facilities we have here in Victoria.”
The Trek:
While summiting Kilimanjiro is certainly a test of endurance, it is not a “technical climb”. It is a mountain that anyone who trains and is reasonably fit should be able to summit. It is more of a trek than a climb.
The Tanzanian government requires that trekkers can only attempt Kilimanjiro through recognized trekking organizations. We arranged our trek up Kilimanjiro through Zara Adventures. Unbelievably we had a crew Of 24 people looking after the 6 trekkers in our group. Our staff ranged from English speaking guides, cooks, and porters. Our guides had such regal “sounding names as: “Prosper Dixon, Reginald and Moses”. With such regal names as these how could we not succeed?
We slept in tents. For our comfort, a dining tent along with folding chairs, a table and even a portable toilet and tent were carried up the mountain by our porters. The only thing we carried was light day packs. This was a very different experience for Steve whose previous trekking experience in Nepal, we typically organized the trek and carried all our own gear ourselves.
The actual time on the mountain was from base to summit and to base was 7 days. “I found the first 5 days deceptively easy. We had prepared well, and were physically fit. Each day we trekked steadily for 5- 6 hours. By the 5th day our elevation gain was 4600 meters from 1800 meters. It is important acclimatize slowly to avoid “acute mountain sickness” (AMS). AMS is indiscriminate whom it affects and has nothing to do with ones level of fitness. At a mild stage, AMS symptoms include dizziness, fatigue and moderate headaches. At higher altitudes (and depending upon the individual) AMS can progress to extreme headaches, exhaustion, noxiousness, disorirtation, hallucinations and is potentially fatal if ignored. To various degrees, some in our group did experience mild AMS, but not to a debilitating degree. Our guides were very aware of our safety and physical health. They made sure we trekked slowly, kept hydrated, and ate well.
Summit Day:
“Our summit day was a very long and arduous. If I’d found the first 5 days easier than I’d expected, the actual climb to the summit was far more rigorous than I’d anticipated. The day began in the morning with a 4 hour trek to our final “base camp”. It was at this point that I personally had a set back by “tweaking” my back, by somehow twisting it after hours of trekking. This proved to be quite painful over the next couple of days. Of all the days and times for this to happen – right when I needed to be at peak health and fitness. Still, fortified with a dosage of ibroprofine, I was determined that I would summit as scheduled. In preparation we rested in our tents in the late afternoon for a few hours. We got up about 10 PM, put on our warmest gear, drank tea, had a light snack then set off in the dark. There was a partial moon, so with the exception of our headlamps it was very dark out. I do recall the stars above being exceptionally bright and blanketing the night sky.
There were 6 in our group, along with 3 guides. For the next 6 hours from 11 PM through till 5AM the next morning we climbed steadily. Now it was more of a climb than a trek. The trail traversed steeply back and forth. At times we were required to go hand over hand over rock faces along the trail. We followed one another in a tight line. We were like a slow moving train. Through the light of our headlamps, we looked only at the boots and steps of the person directly ahead of us. At times, as I stumbled or faltered occasionally I’d feel the arm of the person behind me steadying me and in turn at times I’d steady the person in front of me. We walked in silence. The only sounds that could be heard was the whistling of the strong wind, our labored breathing, the tapping of our trekking poles and the rythmatic crunching of our boots on the volcanic rocks beneath our feet.
Over the course of the night we rested no more than 4 or 5 times, stopping only for a few minutes each time to have a drink or to adjust some equipment. It was bitterly cold (-19C), with the wind whipping and numbing the exposed places on our faces. Still, with the steady movement and body heat generated the cold was not debilitating.
Throughout the long night, hour after hour of trudging along I found my thoughts wandering wildly. More than once I asked myself if I was going to make it. Why was I doing this venture, what was I trying to prove? At times I wanted to quit – abandon the climb – but I couldn’t find a way or the courage to graciously bow out. I felt I had to go on, or else I’d be letting the group down. At times I wondered if I was going to suddenly keel over or even have a heart attack. What did a heart attack feel like – I’d never had one. My thoughts fluctuated wildly unchecked. Later, I found out that others in our group had also had such wild thoughts, each thinking that they were the “weak link” in the chain. I played some mind games trying to spur myself along. I tried to convince myself that no matter how tired or uncomfortable I was at that particular moment, it would all be over within a day. (This too shall pass). I reminded myself, that this venture was in fact “good” for me, good for my character, physically good for me and so on. This was a personal goal that I was achieving and I was going beyond my personal comfort zone.
As the night progressed, with my back throbbing, at times I seemed to be hyper ventilating. I couldn’t seem to catch my breath, and was gasping for oxygen through my mouth. My mouth and throat were parched dry. I was utterly exhausted. I would force myself to walk a 100 paces, only looking at the steps of the person in front of me, before I’d allow myself to take a quick glance at the glacier to my side, the stars above, or check my watch to see how long we’d been going.
At about 4:30 AM we reached the ridge of Kilimanjiro. We were on the lip of the volcano and could peer down into the dark mouth of the crater. Again, I wanted to quit, but couldn’t bring myself to abandon the group. We rested for a couple of minutes. The guides told us the summit was only another hour away. It was still pitch black out, with the exception of the crescent moon giving off an eerie glow. The sky was a mass of stars and being in the southern hemisphere, I didn’t recognize any of the usual patterns. Where was that familiar Big Dipper?
We again set off for the summit, along the western rim of the volcano lip. I was preparing myself for another long tiring trek. At times I felt like I was walking in my sleep. It was all a never ending dream. Now the incline was more gradual. We were on the top of Mt. Kilimanjiro, trekking towards the summit at the north end. Between glances, I couldn’t see where top actually was. Suddenly, we were there, at the summit marker – “Mt. Kilimanjiro - 5895 meters!” I didn’t realize we’d reached our destination until we were within 3 meters of it. We’d achieved our goal. We had all summitted Mt Kilimanjiro. The night was still pitch black with just a hint of an orange and purple sunrise glow on the eastern horizon. To the west of us and just below us the glacier and snows of Kilimanjiro seemed to glowing a faucerferius green blue color. It wasn’t for the view we come for, because there wasn’t a whole lot to see at this time of night. I later saw the sunrise on the way down, but was too tired to fully appreciate the splendor of it.
How did I feel? Nothing! No sence of pride or accomplishment – just sheer exhaustion. It was bitterly cold and the wind was still howling. There were hugs, high fives, congratulations, comments such, as “way to go, and “we made it”. We took a few pictures then it was time to come down. We’d been at the top no more than 10 minutes.
The Decent:
It took under 3 hours to descend to our base camp. I arrived back at my tent by 8:30. I’d been on the mountain for more than 9 hours with only minutes of rest. Upon reaching my tent after a glass of juice and a Mars bar I collapsed into my sleeping bag and fell into an exhausted sleep.
The Long day continues:
Later that day after a couple of hours of sleep, some lunch we broke camp and continued down the mountain. As we descended, the cool, moist oxygenated air felt like Champaign to my lungs. My body was tired. My back and knees were hurting and there was a pebble in my boots that I couldn’t seem to get out. After 4 more hours of hiking we arrived at our last camp. The next morning, after another 3 hours of hiking to the park entrance it was over. Several hours later, back at the hotel, after a hot shower, a cold beer and lunch it was time to reflect on the past weeks experience. The mountain has a way of humbling you. Despite all the preparation and training, the mountain was bigger than me. I felt a sence of gratitude towards our group and our guides. The guides, porters and cooks had successfully got us all up and off the mountain. We’d all learned to trust their judgment and expertise implicitly. Even for a novice climber, Kilimanjiro couldn’t be summitted effortlessly. I felt a sence of reverence both to my Creator and to the awesomeness of creation.
I was really no worse off from the experience. Sure I was a few kilograms lighter, my lips were cracked, my muscles were aching and my face was sun and wind burned. Would I do it all again – sure, but not immediately.
What’s next:
Right now, I can’t even think about mountains let alone consider climbing one. Still, the mountains will summon me again. They always do. I have one last son – one last trek to plan for - Mt Everest Base Camp. In the mean time we plan to continue to hike and do our walks around Mt. Doug Park.
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