Heritage: Restoration Guidelines

While every effort is made by the Saanich Heritage Foundation (SHF) to provide correct information and guidance to Saanich home owners in making applications, neither SHF nor its members or staff individually warrant or guarantee the information given.

The following list of exterior restoration principles can be used by designated heritage homeowners and their contractors. In planning work the owner should keep these general principles of restoration in mind:

• Restoration and retention of original architectural features.
• Repair of old work is preferable to replacement with new work. 
• New work should replicate old work exactly, or if old work is already missing, new work should be based on research
  of archival (photographic) sources of the same or similar buildings. 
• Ongoing maintenance will minimize the need for extensive repairs and is therefore preferred. 
• All work shall be in accordance with "The Standards and Guidelines for the Conservation of Historic Places in Canada".  http://www.historicplaces.ca/nor-sta/norm-stan_e.aspx

Ensure long term stability by sequencing work, for example, drainage work with or before foundations, roofing before gutters, woodwork before painting. Storm windows, which are funded from budget residuals, are our lowest priority and are reviewed after higher priority items are addressed.

When obtaining quotes for a job, make sure you are dealing with all aspects of the job. For example: sometimes the fascia boards or roof sheathing around the eaves need replacing when the roof is done; and when windows are rebuilt or restored, make sure that you also get quotes for installation, and priming and painting - see Estimate Checklist.

Please also note that it is the property owner's responsibility to make separate application for a Building Permit to the Inspection Services Division (475-1775) if required.

ROOFS

In most cases, preference will be given to original material - this almost invariably means cedar shingles (sawn on both faces), not shakes (split).  

• Quality substitute roofing material will be considered (e.g. textured asphalt shingles to simulate cedar shingles);for fire safety, it must be properly flashed in the valleys as per cedar shingle roofs [please call for clarification].  
• All layers of old roofing must be removed
• Budget allowance must be made for rotten or damaged strapping or sheathing, especially at eaves and valleys.
• Ridge capping may have been metal or wood, and should be replaced as original, if known.
• Roof should precede gutters; but are new gutters and downspouts also necessary at this time?
• Ensure that nail length is correct for sheathing thickness to avoid protruding nails under eaves.
• Minimum warranty - ten (10) years for labour and manufacturers warranty.
• All workmanship shall be to standards endorsed by the Roofing Contractors Associations of BC (RCABC).  While the SHF does not require that the roofing contractors selected (to submit a bid) be members of the RCABC, we would highly encourage this to the homeowner for quality control.
• Quotations must include "strip off" and "removal" from the job site, all roofing material.

GUTTERS AND DOWNSPOUTS

• Original materials are preferred (ie. wood, galvanized iron), but prefinished aluminum is accepted.
• Vinyl or PVC are not acceptable.
• Original profile shape of the gutters should be repeated (eg. Roman Ogee)
• Downspouts should also match original - usually 2" round and connect to storm drains
• Fascia boards and rafter tails should be checked for rot, and repairs included in estimate or budget.
• What is the condition of the storm drain system? - The SHF does fund this work.

CHIMNEYS AND MASONRY WORK

• We fund only exterior brickwork, ie. chimney work from roof up, or on exterior wall.
• Replacement bricks, if required, are to match the originals in profile, colour, texture and size.
• Do not use soot-stained bricks on the exterior.
• Profile and materials of the cap should match the original.
• Chimney pots should match original - if flue liners are being installed where they were not original, use minimum projection above chimney top.
• Colour and profile of mortar joint should match original.
• Sand blasting or power washing should be avoided - paint can be removed chemically.
• Chimney liners are to be of types approved by municipal building authorities.

FOUNDATIONS, STORM AND PERIMETER DRAINS

• We fund new foundations, but with only minimal change to floor level and exterior grades.
• We will not fund a foundation that is being either raised or dug deeper into the ground.
• Damp-proofing,  a ground seal and proper ventilation is required.
• Check with Municipal Engineering Department for location and depth of storm drain and sanitary sewer connections.
• Skirting details - reconstruction should include the original or facsimile water table and base.

EXTERIOR WOODWORK AND TRIM

• Must use No. 1 clear lumber for replacement of trim.
• Make exact profiles of original moulding profiles, siding profiles, balusters and ornamental trim when replacing and
  rebuilding.
• Research original design of porches and steps and missing ornament.
• Plywood is not historically correct. Fir flooring is still available. Most old porches are fir floored and steps have bull-nosed treads.
• All woodwork should be primed at time of installation.
• See References, p.4: Well Preserved, re: "Exterior Woodwork" pp. 136-139.

WINDOWS AND DOORS

• SHF does not fund double-glazed or thermal units in vinyl or aluminum frames.
• SHF does fund wooden storm windows set in wood frames to match original windows.
• SHF does fund wooden storm windows:fixed, opening or removable.
• Replacement windows should, whenever possible, use "old" glass (e.g. rolled) if suitable to the era of the home (and if available)
• Replacement windows should replicate the historic windows in size, number of panes, maintain shape, frame, colour and
  reflective qualities of the glass.
• Muntin bars (the wood pieces dividing small panes of glass) are to be placed between separate pieces of glass, not just on
  top of one large piece of glass.
• New windows or storms must be primed before installation; be sure your price quote includes priming, painting, hardware
  and installation.
• Storm windows can increase the life of your historic windows by providing protection from the elements; storm windows
  also provide heat and sound insulation.
• Retain original operating mechanisms where possible.

PAINT

• The most important aspect of a paint job is the preparation. An improperly prepared surface will not hold paint.
• The type of paint must be carefully considered and of a quality that will last as long as possible - at least 7 years (Research
  this with a paint contractor/retailer.)
• Woodwork and trim repairs and replacement that are required must be done prior to painting.
• No lead based paints.
• Obtain written warranty for paint job.

COLOUR SCHEMES

• Original colours are an option and may be determined by sanding in an inconspicuous spot.
• Alternative colour schemes should be sympathetic to the design and period of the house. Research can be helpful here. 
• Submit paint chips and detail accurately colour placement on the house.
• Use historical accuracy in placement of colours - don't pick out too much detail.
• For additional information, see Colour Scheme Guidelines.

Preparation

• Good preparation of surfaces is extremely important - get advice from experts.
• Power-washing or sand-blasting, should be avoided, (use a garden hose to remove dirt).

Oil (alkyd) vs Latex (acrylic)

• Depends on the condition of the surface, location on the house and design of the house.
• This information can be obtained from your paint contractor/retailer and is essential for best and lasting results.

Shingle Siding

• Generally best oil-based stained unless already painted.
• Stain is easier and cheaper to apply, longer lasting, and allows the texture of the shingles to stand out better - it also doesn't peel like paint.

Some General Rules:

• Acrylic (water base) paints generally last longer than oils and allow the wood to breathe therefore are not likely to have wood rotting underneath the paint), so would be better than oil on most surfaces.
• Window sashes and doors, because they are meant to move, are best done in Alkyd gloss for highest abrasion resistance no marine enamel.
• When old stains in the wood will leach through new layers of paint, the wood should be sealed with an oil primer.
• Half-timbering was likely meant to be a flat finish, to simulate an aged medieval, rough-hewn look.

***A consultation with a SHF member could be beneficial.

REFERENCES

1. Moss, Roger W., Century of Colour: Exterior Decoration for American Buildings - 1820/1920, Watkins Glen, NY, American Life Foundation, 1981. 
2. Fram, Mark, Well-Preserved: The Ontario Heritage Foundation's Manual of Principles and Practice for Architectural Conservation, Erin, Ontario, The Boston Mills Press, 1988.
3. "Your Old House" Brochures produced by The Victoria Heritage Foundation, The Vancouver Heritage Conservation Foundation and The Heritage Society of BC are available (to Saanich residents only) from the Saanich Heritage Foundation, c/o The Office of the Municipal Clerk, 770 Vernon Avenue, Victoria, BC  V8X 2W7 or by calling the Secretary, Shirley Leggett at 475-1775 local 3504.  Titles available in this series of brochures are: What Style is it?, True Colours, Paint, Masonry, Wood Siding, and Wood Windows.
4. "The Standards and Guidelines for the Conservation of Historic Places in Canada".  http://www.historicplaces.ca/nor-sta/norm-stan_e.aspx